The Composition of a Perfume
- Oct 6, 2024
- 11 min read
What Makes a Perfume a Perfume?
Have you ever thought about what happens when you spray a perfume on your body? What makes a perfume truly a "perfume"? The essential answer lies in two key components: an essence and ethyl alcohol. These two ingredients are the foundation that make a perfume usable. However, this combination alone might not be sufficient. You may need to delve deeper into the notes within the essence and then carefully add suitable preservatives, emulsifiers, and fixatives (to enhance longevity). These chemicals can be naturally derived or synthesized in laboratories.
With the growing population and the threat posed to animals and plants from which chemicals were traditionally sourced, synthetic methods are now widely favored. These chemicals are carefully formulated to ensure the scent’s quality, longevity, diffusion, and stability. However, there are some people—perhaps even you—who might be sensitive to these chemicals. A fragrance that should feel refreshing may weigh on your lungs like a burden due to these synthetic substances, making it difficult for you to enjoy perfumes.
Essential Oils and Aroma Chemicals
Notes
The notes used in perfumes are generally divided into three main categories: top notes, middle (heart) notes, and base notes. Each group of notes emerges at different stages of the fragrance and contributes to specific aspects of the overall scent experience. These notes define the scent journey from the moment you apply the perfume to when it gradually fades. Let’s explore them in detail:
1. Top Notes
Top notes are the scents you first smell when you apply a perfume and usually last for 15-30 minutes. They create the perfume’s first impression and are composed of light, quickly evaporating ingredients.
Citrus Notes: Lemon, orange, bergamot, and other fruits provide a fresh, energetic, and uplifting aroma.
Lemon (Citrus Limon): Offers a refreshing and sharp scent, adding vibrancy to fragrances.
Bergamot (Citrus Bergamia): A lightly sweet, citrusy, and floral note commonly used in top notes.
Green Notes: Scents like grass, leaves, and herbal aromas provide a natural, fresh feel.
Rosemary (Rosmarinus Officinalis): A sharp, herbal, and slightly spicy scent.
Tea Notes: Green tea and black tea offer soft, herbal, and delicate scents.
Aromatic Notes: Scents like lavender, mint, and basil bring a fresh and invigorating touch.
Lavender (Lavandula Angustifolia): A refreshing, floral, and slightly sweet scent.
Mint (Mentha Piperita): Sharp, cooling, and energizing.
2. Middle Notes (Heart Notes)
Middle notes emerge after the top notes evaporate and define the character of the perfume. These notes typically last 2-4 hours and are referred to as the “heart” of the fragrance.
Floral Notes: Rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, and violet, commonly used in women’s perfumes, offer sweet, romantic scents.
Rose (Rosa Damascena): Sweet, romantic, and elegant, often found in heart notes.
Jasmine (Jasminum Officinale): Sensual, floral, and slightly creamy.
Spicy Notes: Cinnamon, cloves, and ginger add warmth and intensity.
Cinnamon (Cinnamomum Verum): Sweet, warm, and spicy.
Ginger (Zingiber Officinale): Fresh, sharp, and warm.
Fruity Notes: Apple, peach, and pineapple bring light sweetness and freshness.
Peach (Prunus Persica): Sweet and juicy, adding warmth and allure to fragrances.
Pineapple (Ananas Comosus): Tropical and sweet, often used in fresh, exotic blends.
3. Base Notes
Base notes are the longest-lasting and emerge during the final stage of the perfume. These notes typically provide 4-6 hours of staying power or even last all day, contributing to the depth and richness of the fragrance.
Woody Notes: Scents like sandalwood, cedarwood, and vetiver add depth and richness.
Sandalwood (Santalum Album): Creamy, woody, and warm.
Vetiver (Chrysopogon Zizanioides): Earthy, woody, and slightly smoky.
Amber Notes: Warm, sweet, and slightly resinous, amber notes give a perfume depth and warmth.
Amber: A sweet, resinous scent derived from natural amber.
Ambergris: A blend of marine and sweet, animalistic notes that provide stability and longevity in perfumes.
Musk Notes: Musk, white musk, and animalistic musks add a skin-like, soft, and lasting touch to perfumes.
Musk (Musk): Warm, animalistic, and slightly sweet.
Sweet and Balsamic Notes: Vanilla, tonka bean, and other sweet scents offer smoothness and sweetness.
Vanilla (Vanilla Planifolia): Warm, sweet, and creamy.
Tonka Bean (Dipteryx Odorata): Sweet, spicy, and slightly woody, often used as a base note in gourmand fragrances.
Essential Oils
Essential oils, extracted from plants, contain both aromatic and therapeutic properties. Their use in perfumes depends on the chemical compounds found within the oil. These naturally occurring compounds in plants serve both as a defense mechanism for the plant and create specific scent profiles through volatile compounds.
Essential oils are usually extracted through steam distillation, cold pressing, or solvent extraction. These methods draw oils from the plant's leaves, flowers, roots, bark, or fruits. The inclusion of essential oils in perfume formulations is a key factor in determining both the fragrance’s quality and its effect on the wearer.
Aroma Chemicals
Aroma chemicals are widely used in the perfume, cosmetics, and food industries to create specific scent and flavor profiles. They can be either natural or synthetic. In perfumes, aroma chemicals are used to mimic the natural structure of essential oils, stabilize scents, and reduce production costs.
Geraniol (C10H18O):
Source: Found in floral plants such as roses, lavender, and geraniums.
Usage: Commonly used in rose and floral scents.
Production: Extracted naturally from these plants via distillation or produced synthetically.
Limonene (C10H16):
Source: Naturally present in citrus peels.
Usage: Used in fresh, citrusy fragrances.
Production: Obtained through cold pressing of citrus peels. It can also be produced synthetically.
Coumarin (C9H6O2):
Source: Naturally found in tonka beans, lavender, and sweet clover.
Usage: Has a sweet, vanilla-like scent and is commonly used in fougère and oriental perfumes.
Production: Can be sourced naturally but is mostly produced synthetically.
ISO E Super (C16H26O):
Source: Not found in nature, entirely synthetic.
Usage: Provides a woody, amber-like scent and enhances the longevity of fragrances.
Production: Created through chemical synthesis in a laboratory.
Vanillin (C8H8O3):
Source: Naturally found in the vanilla plant.
Usage: Offers a sweet, warm scent and is often used in oriental and gourmand fragrances.
Production: Although it can be extracted from vanilla plants, most vanillin is produced synthetically in large quantities.
Aroma chemicals are essential to modern perfumery, allowing perfumers to create complex, unique fragrances while ensuring consistency and affordability.
Fixatives (Stabilizers)
Fixatives are substances used in perfumes to extend the longevity of the fragrance and help distribute the notes more evenly.
Ambroxan (C16H28O):
Source: Derived from ambergris, a substance naturally secreted by sperm whales and found in the marine environment.
Usage: Provides a warm, woody, and musky scent. Enhances the longevity of the perfume.
Production: Due to restrictions on ambergris, Ambroxan is produced synthetically.
Galaxolide (C18H26O):
Source: No natural source; it is a fully synthetic musk compound.
Usage: Provides a lasting, sweet, and musky scent.
Production: Manufactured through chemical synthesis in laboratories.
Civetone (C17H30O):
Source: Naturally found in the glandular secretions of the African civet cat. However, for ethical and animal welfare reasons, it is usually synthesized.
Usage: Delivers an animalic, warm musk scent.
Production: Typically produced synthetically in modern times.
Musk Ketone (C14H18N2O5):
Source: Natural musk comes from the secretions of musk deer; however, due to environmental and ethical concerns, synthetic musks are widely used.
Usage: Commonly used as a fixative, providing a musky, sweet scent.
Production: Produced synthetically.
Alcohol (Ethanol - C2H5OH):
Source: Obtained through the fermentation of plants such as sugar cane, grains, or grapes.
Usage: Used in perfumes to dissolve essential oils and enhance the volatility during application.
Production: Extracted from natural sources through fermentation and distillation.
Pure Water (Distilled Water - H2O):
Source: Obtained through the distillation of natural water.
Usage: Acts as a diluent and balancer in perfume formulations.
Production: Produced by distilling water to remove minerals and impurities.
Stabilizers and Antioxidants
These substances help maintain the chemical stability of the perfume by preventing oxidation and degradation.
BHT (Butylated Hydroxytoluene - C15H24O):
Source: Not naturally found in plants; it is a fully synthetic antioxidant.
Usage: Protects perfume formulations from oxidation and extends shelf life.
Production: Produced through chemical synthesis in laboratories.
EDTA (Ethylenediaminetetraacetic Acid - C10H16N2O8):
Source: No natural source; a fully synthetic compound.
Usage: Binds metal ions to prevent oxidation.
Production: Synthesized chemically in laboratories.
Emulsifiers and Solvents
These substances allow oil- and water-based ingredients to mix and stabilize.
Dipropylene Glycol (C6H14O3):
Source: No natural source; derived from petrochemicals.
Usage: Used to dissolve essential oils in alcohol.
Production: Produced from petrochemical sources through chemical processes.
Polysorbate 20 (C26H50O10):
Source: Not obtained from natural sources; it is a fully synthetic emulsifier.
Usage: Enables the mixing of oil- and water-based components.
Production: Manufactured through chemical synthesis in laboratory settings.
Color Additives
These additives provide aesthetic color to perfumes.
Yellow 5 (Tartrazine - C16H9N4O9S2Na3):
Source: No natural source; a fully synthetic food and cosmetic dye.
Usage: Used to give perfumes a yellow hue.
Production: Produced synthetically through chemical processes.
Red 40 (Allura Red AC - C18H14N2Na2O8S2):
Source: Not a natural source; a synthetic azo dye.
Usage: Provides red coloring in perfumes and other cosmetic products.
Production: Created through chemical synthesis in laboratories.
Fixatives, stabilizers, and other additives are critical in ensuring that perfumes maintain their integrity, scent, and appearance over time.
Preservatives
Preservatives used in perfumes are added to prevent microbial spoilage and unwanted chemical reactions in the formulation. These substances are particularly necessary in water-based perfume formulas to inhibit the growth of bacteria, fungi, or mold. In alcohol-based perfumes, alcohol itself acts as a natural preservative, so additional preservatives may not always be required. However, in some formulations, preservatives are added to extend the shelf life and prevent microbial growth.
Phenoxyethanol (C8H10O2)
Source: Rarely found in natural sources; generally produced synthetically.
Use: A very common preservative used to prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi.
Production: Produced in the laboratory by reacting phenol with ethylene oxide.
Purpose: Extends the shelf life by preventing perfume spoilage.
Methylparaben (C8H8O3)
Source: While parabens can be found in some plants (e.g., blueberries), they are typically produced synthetically.
Use: A widely used preservative to prevent microbial growth in perfume formulations.
Production: Synthesized through chemical processes in the laboratory.
Purpose: Prevents bacteria and fungi growth in perfumes, ensuring safety for products that come into contact with the skin.
Ethylhexylglycerin (C11H22O3)
Source: No natural source; fully synthetic.
Use: Inhibits bacterial growth and also provides softness and moisturization to the skin.
Production: Chemically synthesized in laboratories using glycerol and ethylhexanol derivatives.
Purpose: Prevents the proliferation of microorganisms in perfumes and helps avoid skin irritation.
Sodium Benzoate (C7H5NaO2)
Source: Benzoic acid is found naturally in cinnamon, cloves, and certain fruits, while sodium benzoate is produced synthetically.
Use: A preservative with antifungal and antibacterial properties.
Production: Created by reacting benzoic acid with sodium hydroxide.
Purpose: Increases shelf life by preventing microbial growth in perfumes.
Potassium Sorbate (C6H7KO2)
Source: Sorbic acid is found naturally in the fruits of the rowan tree, while potassium sorbate is typically synthesized.
Use: A highly effective preservative against microbial growth.
Production: Produced chemically as the potassium salt of sorbic acid.
Purpose: Prevents mold and fungus formation in perfumes and cosmetic products.
Tocopherol (Vitamin E - C29H50O2)
Source: Naturally found in plant oils (e.g., wheat germ oil, sunflower oil).
Use: A natural antioxidant that prevents oxidation and also nourishes the skin.
Production: Extracted naturally from vegetable oils or produced synthetically.
Purpose: Prevents oxidation and spoilage in perfume formulas while providing skin benefits.
Benzoic Acid (C7H6O2)
Source: Found naturally in certain fruits, especially berries.
Use: A preservative with antibacterial and antifungal properties.
Production: Although it can be extracted from natural sources, it is mostly produced synthetically.
Purpose: Helps protect perfumes from microbial spoilage.
Benzyl Alcohol (C7H8O)
Source: Found naturally in certain flowers (e.g., jasmine), but usually produced synthetically.
Use: Used both as a preservative and a solvent.
Production: Produced in the laboratory by reacting benzyl chloride with sodium hydroxide.
Purpose: Prevents bacteria growth in perfumes and aids in dissolving other ingredients.
Sorbic Acid (C6H8O2)
Source: Found naturally in certain plants but generally produced synthetically.
Use: Prevents the growth of bacteria and fungi, protecting perfumes from spoilage.
Production: Synthesized chemically.
Purpose: Ensures the stability of perfume formulations, especially in water-based ones.
Preservatives help ensure the longevity of perfumes by preventing microbial growth and chemical spoilage. While their use may be limited in alcohol-based perfumes, where alcohol already acts as a preservative, they are essential in water-based or low-alcohol formulations to maintain product stability.
Impact of Chemicals on Human Health
Chemicals are usually tested for safety and are generally considered safe when used within certain limits. However, some people may be sensitive to these compounds and experience various reactions. These chemicals can cause irritation, allergic reactions, asthma and respiratory problems. Here are the chemicals used and their possible effects:
Preservatives | Emulsifiers and Solvents | Color Additives
BHT (Butylated Hydroxytoluene)
There are scientific studies indicating that BHT in high doses can be potentially carcinogenic, disrupt hormone balance, cause skin irritation and allergic reactions.
EDTA (Ethylenediaminetetraacetic Acid)
Can be toxic in high concentrations and can cause environmental pollution, skin and eye irritation.
Phenoxyethanol
Can cause toxic effects on the central nervous system when exposed to high amounts. Can cause irritation and redness in eye contact, especially sensitive skin.
Parabens
Can have an estrogen-like effect in the body, which can disrupt hormone balance and cause skin irritation, redness and itching in some people.
Dipropylene Glycol
Prolonged exposure to the skin or respiratory tract can cause irritation. High doses can cause headaches, dizziness and central nervous system depression.
Polysorbate 20
Can be toxic in high concentrations and can cause organ damage, and of course can cause allergic reactions in sensitive skin.
Yellow 5 (Tartrazine)
Skin rashes, itching and shortness of breath in sensitive people, and some studies suggest it can cause hyperactivity and behavioral disorders in children.
Red 40 (Allura Red)
Can cause allergic reactions, skin irritation in sensitive people and potentially carcinogenic effects in high doses
Vanillin
It may cause irritation in sensitive individuals with skin and eyes, skin redness and itching in sensitive individuals, and asthma-like symptoms when inhaled in high concentrations.
Ambroxan
Long-term exposure to Ambroxan may cause dermatitis and skin irritation in some individuals, and nose and throat irritation when inhaled in high concentrations.
Iso E Super
It may cause redness and irritation in sensitive skin, and in rare cases allergic contact dermatitis may be observed.
Limonene
It may cause skin irritation and contact dermatitis in sensitive individuals, skin redness and burns when exposed to sunlight, and headache and dizziness when inhaled.
Coumarin
It may damage the liver when consumed in high doses, and its use in food products is limited. It may also cause skin rash and itching.
Hedione
It has a generally low toxic profile, but it may cause skin irritation in some sensitive individuals.In high concentrations, it can cause headaches and respiratory tract irritation.
Musk Ketone
Some studies have suggested that musk ketones can have negative effects on hormone balance and can have endocrine disrupting effects. It is not limited to these, it tends to accumulate in the body and has the potential for environmental bioaccumulation. Moreover, it can cause redness, itching and irritation on the skin.
Geraniol
It can cause allergic reactions such as redness, itching and irritation on the skin and contact dermatitis.
Linalool
It can cause skin irritation and allergic reactions in sensitive individuals and can have a mild sedative effect (calming the person by triggering the nervous system) when exposed to high doses.
Ethyl Maltol
It can cause redness on sensitive skin and irritation in the nose and throat when inhaled in dust or vapor form.
Galaxolide
There is some research that Galaxolide can affect hormone levels and have negative effects on the endocrine system. It tends to accumulate in the body and can have negative effects on the environment.
Civetone
When it comes into contact with the skin, allergic reactions (rash, itching) may occur in sensitive individuals.
Especially the negative effects of these preservatives on human health after long years of use is a big topic of discussion. Preservative chemicals and emulsifiers are used not only in the perfumes we use but also in the foods we consume. Your health is more important than anything else. If you want to know what is in your perfume, protect yourself from these bad chemicals and smell nice, you can fill out this form. You can try our handmade perfumes. Moreover, they do not contain preservatives and emulsifiers that will negatively affect your health, cause cancer, or irritate your skin. May the days you smell nice be with you.
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